Denver Jewelry Studio

Split Shank Statement Ring

Instructor:  Sara McGraw

Prerequisite:  Metalsmithing 1 or equivalent

Duration:  8 Hours 

Statement rings have been a fashion staple since the 1920’s when the Art Deco style reigned and glamour and excess were the hallmarks of the decade. Statement rings were one way the women of the 20’s era could rebel against the conservatism of the Prohibition movement and assert their own independence and individuality through their jewelry. Today, statement rings still serve as a means of self-expression, but they are now a true representation of the diversity and resiliency of fashion. 

In this workshop, participants will learn how to create a split shank, bezel set statement ring. We will discuss the basics of working with gallery wire; the benefits and pitfalls of working with larger cabochons; why split shank bands are beneficial to use for statement rings; and different embellishment options for the band and bezel. Participants will have hands-on experience creating a bezel out of gallery wire, shaping, finishing, and soldering down a split-shank band, and setting the cabochon without marring the pattern on the gallery wire. 

Bring your metalsmithing toolbox, including the following items: 

• 3 inches or more 0.257” x 0.081” (6.53 mm x 2.0 mm) double half round wire, dead soft
• 2” x 6”  20 gauge Sterling silver sheet, dead soft
• 1 Cabochon that is nickel to quarter sized
• 1 ft Fine silver scalloped bezel or gallery wire of your choice (plain bezel can be used if you prefer)
• some of each hard, medium, easy, extra-easy silver wire solders
• jeweler’s saw frame
• 2/0 saw blades
• Bees wax
• wire cutters
• chain nose pliers
• flat and half round needle file, cut 0 (or get the set here)
• Bezel roller
• Metal jeweler’s ruler
• 1 each 220, 320, 400, 600 grit sandpaper
• 1 set abrasive wheels
• Light green bristle discs
• peach bristle discs
• blue bristle discs
• 2 packs mandrels for bristle discs & rubber wheels (above)
• eye protection, clear
• fine tip sharpie
• apron
• firebrick
• N95 face mask 

Optional Items: 

• Nylon jaw parallel pliers (flat nose recommended)
• Flex-I-File Combo Set (#123)
• 22 or 24 gauge brass texture plate (Cool Tools and Santa Fe Jewelers Supply have these)